Shirt Anatomy

Menswear styles don’t usually follow the fashion curve or change with on-going trends. They tend to have their own set of rules, across ages, with few subtle tweaks here and now. The major play to any garment is in its detailing. Whether we choose a custom tailored piece or an off-the-rack pick, it’s not only the fabric or pattern that highlight our personality but also our understanding of the styling details that work the best for us.

A Dress Shirt in particular is an essential part of a man’s wardrobe. We’ve broken down the terms and forms of a shirt to help you pick the right fit and style, on your next shopping day out. To get us started, we’ve covered all the basics of a shirt’s anatomy for your perusal.

No shirt is complete without a collar (though at Tailorman we offer a range of collarless shirts). The collar helps define the formality of the shirt and also highlights the distinctive shape of the face.

Cutaway Collar- Suitable for formal occasions, a cutaway collar (also known as spread collar, based on the distance between the points) pairs perfectly with a wide tie knot because of its relatively wide point spread.

Button Down Collar- Donning a very casual appeal, the button down collar is traditionally not suitable for formal affairs but works perfectly for a brunch/casual look.

Wing Collar- The quintessential black tie collar, the wing tips are also known as Tuxedo Collars as they are specifically designed to suit a bow tie.

Band Collar- Known as collarless, Mandarin, Mao, Chinese etc, the Band collar is versatile collar that can make it to your summer wardrobe and pairs well with your wedding Bandhgalas.

Club collar- One of the more formal collars like the Cutaway, the club collar is ideal for chiseled and elongated face shapes. This collar is a unique formal style introduced by British boarding schools to differentiate their students from the rest.

If you would like to know what collars work best for your face shape, you can check out our blog Collars for your Face Shape.

 

Regular Placket- The dress shirt regular placket is the most commonly seen style. You’ll hardly, if ever, go wrong with this on a formal shirt.

Concealed Placket- Commonly known as the Fly Front, the Concealed Placket is a more formal style placket with an extra piece that covers up the buttons on the front of the shirt.

Box Placket- The most  commonly seen style for casual shirts , the Box placket with its pleat like effect (with stitch line on either side of the placket) give the shirt an aesthetically symmetric appeal.

 

Straight Cuff- Our standard dress shirt cuff. The Straight cuff a.k.a one button barrel is understated and classic. You can’t go wrong with this choice. This cuff is fused to maintain a crisp appearance.

French Cuff- Our standard French Cuff is the go-to choice for tuxedo shirts. It is a completely square cuff shape and requires cuff-links to be worn.

Curved Cuff- A similar version of our standard one button barrel cuff. The curved cuff contributes to a more proportionally balanced look for guys with longer arms.

 

Slim Fit- A modern fit, the chest and sleeves are trimmed slimmer to the body.

Box Fit- A generous cut, a box fit shirt is fuller at the chest and the sleeve.

Classic Fit- The standard cut for most Indian body types, the classic style has a relaxed fit at the chest and the sleeves.

Ultra Slim Fit- The ultra slim or as most people call it the skinny fit shirts are cut closer to the body with a higher armhole.

 

U Hem- U hems are ideal for tucking in and can transition easily from working hours to the weekend.

Straight Hem- Straight hems are traditionally less versatile and are best regarded as casual wear.

Hem Gazette- A hem gazette is more of a style element for shirts than a reflection of its formality or casual appeal.

 

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